SEARCHING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND ORIGINAL SWISS WATCHES WE WERE NOT ABLE TO PASS IN BVLGARI HOURS. ITALIAN DESIGN TRADITIONS, REVOLUTIONARY ACCURACY AND COLOR BRAND SOLUTIONS AWAKEN FANTASY AND DIVE INTO THE WORLD OF TRUE LUXURY.
Improving its jewelry craftsmanship since 1884, Bulgari has created a unique world of splendor and dreams, in which you want to plunge and become part of it. The new models of the finest jewelry work were shown to us by the managing director of the watch division of the brand Guido Terreni.
Complications that increase the accuracy of the watch movement are becoming a trend in women's watches. What are Bulgari's views on the feminization of various seemingly masculine techniques?
Guido: It's true, ladies are increasingly interested in mechanical running, and not just in tourbillons. If men go deeper into details and equipment, then women are more playful, they like complications in general. Last year, we introduced the Berries ladies watch, decorated with a scattering of diamonds and colored stones. The aesthetics of this model are rooted in our jewelry past. The highlight of the watch is that an open window on the dial can either show time or show a tourbillon. So we play with the codes of the House: in fact, if you think about it, the border between the two arts - jewelry and watchmaking - is blurred, and this is the merit of our masters.
Last year's hit was also the Il Giardino Tropicale model, whose design was inspired by the 1980s Naturalia vintage collection. We took as a basis the images of different animals of that collection and used animalistic design in a modern interpretation. For example, the dial of Il Giardino Tropicale is decorated with a parrot figure and flowers made using the champlevé enamel. The model is equipped with a BUL 263 caliber with an automatic winding and tourbillon, the carriage of which is supported by a sapphire crystal bridge. This release was limited to 50 copies. This year we are introducing our second “garden”: the Giardino Marino model, which is based on a fish figure.
What is behind the mystery of Bulgari's perfect design?
Guido: Constancy of style. Men's watches are always created with a black dial, as for example in the models of the Bulgari Bulgari collection. The numbers 6 and 12 are indicated as in the Octo watch. In female models, things are different. The Serpenti collection always has an indication of the Roman numerals VI and XII. But we play with decoration, use different types of guilloche, different colors and coating materials. We also pay great attention to the shape of watches. Diva models look like real jewelry. But this is a watch! Watches that you can wear at a cocktail party, appearing in jeans, and at an official reception, where you will come in a more formal outfit. The secret is simple - pure Italian design. In addition, do not forget that we are setting trends in the watch world. Remember the model Bulgari Bulgari Catene with a bracelet on a double chain - it was a real hit in the world of fashion jewelry.
Today, the concept of the word "luxury" has become multi-layered. What does it mean to you?
Guido: Nowadays, many people want to fit the description of a suite, but I believe that the main thing is to be truly worthy of it. It seems to me that luxury is an expression of creativity and exclusivity. We have a certain audience, and for the sake of it it is necessary to prioritize and determine the boundaries of the possible. The temptation to create things that are accessible is great and dangerous because you dilute your strength, your commitments and dreams, and lower the bar of your brand. True luxury evokes emotions, and Bulgari means jewelry masterpieces, colored stones, a world that is almost inaccessible ... Style, emotions, enthusiasm - Bulgari's creed.
In addition, the way you create a thing also defines the concept of luxury. Copying techniques leads to the fact that the original charm disappears in the product. One must always invest in quality materials, craftsmanship and design. Even the service and customer approach at Bulgari boutiques must be top notch. Three hundred stores is not cheap, but it is part of the game and part of the world of luxury.
Why is a watch with the functions of large and small combat so difficult to implement in life?
Guido: A watch with combat is the pinnacle of watchmaking. This is aerobatics because telling about time through sound is a daunting task. The Grande Sonnerie collection has truly the most complex complication that is available to mankind today. 900 components are needed and a whole year just to create a mechanism. There are 10 watchmakers in the world who can do this complication, and three of them work with Bulgari. Master Pascal Legend, for example, has 28 years of experience. This watch genius began his career with the creation of tourbillons, then worked on minute repeaters for 15 years, and the last few years has been creating complications with combat. There is no school that teaches this technique. In fact, this is a mechanism that allows you to measure time periods in battle. Inside the watch there are hammers that beat the gong. Four gongs made of a special alloy of steel do not exceed the piano string in diameter. Sound is embodied through four notes: do, re, mi, salt. For example, the Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon model is able to play the Westminster Big Ben tune!
The exact tonality and softness of the sound decide everything: you don’t hear metal, the sound is surprisingly “warm”. The correct rhythm and sound intensity should coincide from the first to the last gong, that is, hours, minutes and seconds must correspond to tonality. To create such a complication, the greatest accuracy is needed. The strength of the mechanism is unbelievable, since the entire construction scheme of sound in accordance with hours, minutes and seconds is expressed in 33 mm complications, and it is impossible to improvise here!
What do you plan to do for the 130th anniversary of the brand?
Guido: I’ll tell you a secret that we remade our flagship store in Rome. Soon there will be new models from Basel, for example, updated versions of the Octo men's collection - our true ambassador of style and elegance.
