Text: Lisa Epifanova MODEL J12 FROM THE CHANEL LEGENDARY HOUSE SAWED LIGHT IN MILLENNIUM IS NOT AN ACCIDENT. ITS CREATORS WORLDWIDE COLLECTED AND SUMMED ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT OF CULTURAL CLOCK OF THE XX CENTURY TO REPRESENT PERFECT CLOCK OF THE CENTURY XXI.
Answer to all questions
To the recent history of Chanel, the famous motto of the writer Wolfgang Goethe is generally applicable: "Create the future from the best achievements of the past." After Mademoiselle left, the brand not only did not lose, but also elevated all its famous inventions to absolute. And added to them new, equally revolutionary. When we say “Chanel jacket”, “Chanel fragrance”, “Chanel dress”, clear visual images immediately appear before our eyes. And in recent years, with the words “Chanel watches”, we immediately present the recognizable outlines of the J12.
They were created by Jacques Elle, who came to the company in 1965 and subsequently headed the entire jewelry and watch direction. In 1987, with his submission, the first Chanel watches, the so-called Premiere, premiered. And although they were inspired by symbolic symbols for the house, for example, the octagonal shape of the case repeated the outlines of Place Vendome and the cap of the bottle “No. 5”, Elle felt that something more was required of the watch - they themselves should embody Chanel's philosophy. For example, Coco's favorite colors are black and white.
What could be their perfect reproduction in a watch case? The answer was found: ceramics. It can be painted in the desired color at the production stage. It does not reflect light like metal, and therefore does not distort color perception. And finally, this material is very practical. The ceramics are lightweight, due to the low thermal conductivity they are always warm to the touch, it is almost impossible to scratch. Of course, watches in a ceramic case did not become news for the watch industry.
But Chanel was the first to use exclusive technology in working with this material, which makes it possible to make ceramic parts of any complexity. For this, the House acquired in 1993 the Chatelain factory in Swiss La Chaux-de-Fonds, specializing in the manufacture of cases and fasteners made of high-tech materials. By the way, the famous Chanel bracelet clasp, which opens and closes with one click, is the House's own know-how.
So, in 2000, the first J12 with a black ceramic case and a bracelet premiered. Three years later, her boiling white version followed. The success was overwhelming. It was not just unique (oh, how many times they tried to copy it!), But also a hitherto universal watch. Customers were tormented by the question: what is J12? Are they male or female? Classic or casual? Everyday, sports or maybe evening? The answer to all questions was yes. Other manufacturers, both watch and fashion houses, just shrugged: "We would never have thought of it, only Chanel is capable of this - because it's Chanel."
Magic minutes
Every year in the first decade of the new millennium, Chanel revealed new facets of the J12: in 2005, the premiere of the men's line J12 Superleggera in a case made of lightweight heavy-duty aluminum, the favorite material of the creators of racing cars, and J12 Tourbillon with a tourbillon of their own design on ceramic platinum took place. In 2006 - J12 Haute Joaillerie, inlaid with 605 baguette diamonds. By the way, despite the huge demand, the House limited the release of this model to only five copies, since it was Mademoiselle's favorite number, a symbol of five elements and five senses. A year later, when many brands had already rushed to make watches from ceramics, Chanel introduced an absolute exclusive - J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie, in which the 05.-T1 tourbillon mechanism with ceramic platinum framed a white gold case entirely covered with 568 baguette-cut rubies with a total weight of 38 carats! Even the untimely death of Jacques Elle did not prevent the triumph of his main brainchild.
In 2008, a version of the J12 Automatic was created with the automatic caliber Audemars Piguet 3125, finalized at the Chanel manufactory. Then, new variations appeared annually: with various types of inlays, in matt ceramics, in a case reduced to elegant 29 mm, with a GMT indicator and even in the deep-sea version of the J12 Marine Diver. Finally, in 2010, on the first anniversary of J12, in collaboration with the famous watchmaker Giulio Papi, an amazing Retrograde Mysterieuse model was created. In it, the crown has moved ... right onto the dial to maintain perfectly even outlines of the ceramic case. And so that the head itself does not interfere with the movement of the minute hand, it was made retrograde and at the mark “10 minutes” made a jump in the opposite direction almost across the entire dial. Current minutes in the range from 10 to 20 were reflected in the window at the mark "5:30".
Coming of the comet
Perhaps Retrograde Mysterieuse was the most complex and risky model of J12 in the field of watch mechanics, and after its premiere at Chanel decided to return to more practical experiments. In 2011, the unexpected premiere of a completely new concept took place - the J12 Chromatic in a case made of titanium ceramic. It became a real gift for those who are tired of the dictates of monochrome gamma. Titanium is distinguished from "ordinary" ceramics by the presence of metal in the composition, which increases the strength of the composite and gives the body an amazing color: a real deep gray, not glare in the sun.
In Chromatic, the well-known form of the J12 case, which has become more textured and clear, is perceived in a completely different way. The new version was immediately presented by a very diverse line: from the ladies' version of 33 mm with a quartz movement to the automatic models 38 and 41 mm, as well as models with precious inlay with round diamonds and baguettes.
In 2014, Chanel continued to develop the concept of versatility, presenting another new line in Paris this spring - J12365, a women's watch designed, as the name implies, for every day. They are distinguished by the affordable price and the choice of diameter and material of the case: from classical ceramics and steel to precious inlay and a new alloy of "beige gold" of an amazing shade, the composition of which Chanel keeps in the strictest confidence.
However, the house of Chanel did not even think of abandoning complex and exclusive jewelry versions of his most famous collection. In 2013, the year of the 130th anniversary of the birth of Coco Chanel, J12 Moonphase appeared with a moon phase indicator (as you know, Mademoiselle was very superstitious and believed in the magic of stars), and this year the premiere of J12 Flying Tourbillon took place in Basel. Instead of the traditional upper bridge, the tourbillon's carriage is decorated with a precious “comet” made of white gold with diamonds - also Chanel's favorite symbol - which seems to hover above the dial. And in this model, for the first time in the history of J12, the ceramic bracelet was replaced by a traditional black alligator strap. Therefore, those who claim that the Chanel J12 is already a classic are not quite right. This is a classic that will be a sensation for many years to come.
