ANGELA MISSONI - A LONG AND FAVORITE FRIEND OF OUR MAGAZINE. THIS TIME THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF THE ITALIAN FASHION HOUSE ARRIVED IN DUBAI TO CHECK HOW THE BRAND FEELS IN THE MIDDLE EAST, AND ALSO VISIT THE OPEN MISSIONED FLOOR.
We met with the designer in a cozy multi-brand store Boutique 1. By the way, the Italian label Missoni is included in the regional portfolio of Boutique 1.
Angela, how often do you browse Missoni archives?
Angela: I never look back. No matter how bad this may sound, I try not to recycle what my parents once created (Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, founders of the House. - Note. Ed.). I have a very good memory, and I perfectly remember my childhood and all the sketches of my mother. I often wonder: "What exactly am I looking for?" For example, when I draw a sketch of a dress, I know for sure that his prototype was already in fashion in 1971.
But fashion is cyclical!
Angela: Absolutely. Designers are constantly inspired by different eras, events and each other. This is a kind of necessity, a kind of race for new products. The constant thirst for something fresh, new, first ... My opinion is that in the last 10 years, starting in 2000, it is impossible to determine what exactly means "modern fashion". While the 20s or 70s always carry a certain image.
To some extent, designers have always been inspired by the past.
Angela: Nevertheless, the image of the 2000s simply does not exist. What do we have? What remains of the next generation as a legacy from our era, exactly what style will characterize the present moment - I do not know yet. Street style, maybe? And even in it there are no clear attributes and basis.
Your first show for Missoni took place over 40 years ago, in the early 70's. Is there anything else you're afraid of before the show?
Angela: I "build" the show from scratch. Each image should be refined, clear, without a single "blot". In principle, I never experienced fear of shows, such is my character.
Collection and display are two different things. The show is a concentration of style, this is my point of view. But one show cannot ruin a brand. Of course, five or six failed shows and related reviews can ruin the designer. It requires tremendous willpower and courage! What would happen to me if I listened to various criticisms? You know, I have seen more than one generation of fashion experts since the 70s, when I only helped my mother. Someone left, someone stayed, but Missoni House is still afloat. I have the spirit of a fighter. Perhaps the secret is that I have always been true to myself and my own vision.
You also have a great sense of color - one of the Missoni brand names. Do you see color in combinations?
Angela: Yes. Before working on a collection of the new season, first of all, I create a palette of colors. For example, I take as a basis three or four shades of the basic colors, with which I then experiment to get a harmonious combination. The prints of the cruise collection used four colors and their four shades, that is, technically it is 16 colors, but visually - the color is grouped into shades. I take black or neutral tones as the basis. Therefore, Missoni's things seem so multifaceted, but by no means screaming or clumsy.
And what combinations do you personally like?
Angela: I love contrast. I really like the combination of emerald and brown rusty colors. Myself, I often choose a combination of turquoise and red. It is very important on which general background color is used. If I want a more contrasting perception, then I "throw" it over black or white. The same color can be “muffled” for a softer, more feminine look, using its shades to tone more intensively.
The Spring-Summer 2015 collection is an excellent confirmation of this. How does she convey your mood?
Angela: I wanted to create voluminous, “airy” forms. Fluffy fluid skirts are a key element of the collection. I also experimented with textures and silk. It turned out incredibly light fabrics for the summer. Prints seem to “disappear” from the material - before that they are delicate - and do not repeat each other. In the new season, I offer neutral, pastel colors, it is enough to supplement them with a bright "spot" - an accessory of a more intense color.
What is the undoubted must have thing from the collection?
Angela: Trench and elongated blouses are things that will last more than one season and still remain in trend. Especially trench is the most structural element of the collection. At the same time, it is sewn from light material, which is almost not felt on the skin. I think for the Emirates with their hot climate, such a thing will be necessary.
Missoni woman - what is she?
Angela: She is cheerful, inquisitive, free. Woman Missoni is a great inventor and passionate traveler. Therefore, all things are easy to fold, and then put on, unpacking the suitcase. She appreciates family traditions and does not judge other people; therefore, she gives herself and those around her creative freedom. All in order to live in harmony with herself and the world.
